Mykonos

Its nickname, the island of the winds, comes from the strong northerly meltemi that blows through much of the summer. Beyond the parties, Mykonos rewards slower days: walking the lanes of Chora and Little Venice at sunset, swimming at sandy bays along the south coast and taking the short boat trip to Delos, one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece. Most visitors come between June and September. Villas with pools, apartments in Chora and studios near the beaches suit couples, friends travelling together and families who want their own space.

Where to stay in Mykonos

Chora, on the west coast, is the most convenient base: you can walk to Little Venice, the windmills, museums, restaurants and the old port, and buses to the beaches leave from the edge of town. Its lanes are busy and lively at night, so light sleepers may prefer the quieter upper streets or the outskirts.

The south coast, at Ornos, Agios Ioannis, Platis Gialos and Psarou, has sandy bays with homes and apartments a few steps from the water and regular buses to Chora. Paradise and Paraga, further east, are known for beach bars and clubs. In the north, Agios Stefanos sits near the new port at Tourlos, handy for ferries. Ano Mera, the island's inland village, and the eastern beaches of Elia and Kalafatis suit travellers who want a calmer stay and are happy to drive. Many of the island's villas are on hillsides with sea views but need a car or quad.

Chora, Little Venice and the windmills

Chora is a maze of narrow paved lanes, white houses with coloured doors and balconies, and small chapels. Little Venice, along the western waterfront, is a row of houses built from the mid-18th century with balconies hanging over the sea; they once belonged to merchants and captains, and today the area is the classic place to watch the sunset. Just south, the windmills of Kato Mili stand in a line on a low ridge facing the north wind. Built by the Venetians in the 16th century to grind grain, they were used until the early 20th century.

The church of Panagia Paraportiani, named because it stood beside the gate of the old castle, is one of the best-known buildings in Greece. The town also has an Archaeological Museum opened in 1905, the Aegean Maritime Museum, a Folklore Museum and Lena's House, a preserved 19th-century home. Petros the pelican, the town's mascot since the 1950s, still strolls the waterfront in the form of his successors.

Beaches

Mykonos has dozens of beaches, mostly sandy bays separated by rocky headlands. The best-known lie on the south coast: Ornos and Agios Ioannis close to Chora, Platis Gialos and Psarou a little further east, and then Paraga and Paradise. These bays are well served by buses from the Fabrika station in town and by small boats that hop between beaches in summer, and they tend to be the most sheltered when the north wind is strong.

The east of the island, around Elia and Kalafatis, has longer beaches with more room, while Agios Stefanos in the north is close to the new port. Organised beaches with sunbeds and bars sit beside quieter coves reached by dirt roads. The water is clear and usually warm enough for swimming from June to October, but the meltemi can bring waves and strong gusts on exposed shores, so check conditions before taking children or small boats out.

A day on Delos

The island of Delos lies about 2 kilometres from Mykonos and is covered almost entirely by an archaeological site, listed by UNESCO in 1990. In Greek myth it was the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis, and for about a thousand years it was one of the holiest sanctuaries of the Greek world. After the Persian Wars it became the meeting place and treasury of the Delian League, founded in 478 BC, until Pericles moved the treasury to Athens in 454 BC.

Later Delos grew into a cosmopolitan trading port. Today you can walk among temples, markets and houses with mosaic floors, see the Terrace of the Lions, dedicated by the people of Naxos shortly before 600 BC, and climb Mount Cynthus for views across the Cyclades. Excavations by the French School at Athens began in 1873, and finds are shown in the site museum. Boats leave from Mykonos; bring water, a hat and good shoes, as there is little shade.

History and island life

Ancient Mykonos was a poor island that served as a stopping place for pilgrims and supplies bound for Delos. After the Fourth Crusade it was held by Venetian lords, and in 1537 it was taken by the Ottoman fleet of Hayreddin Barbarossa, remaining part of the Ottoman Empire until Greek independence in 1830. During the War of Independence, which began in 1821, the island was led by Manto Mavrogenous, an aristocrat who spent her family fortune on the Greek cause; her statue stands in the square named after her.

Tourism grew after the excavations on Delos and took off in the 1960s, when the island became popular with an international jet set, and later as a well-known gay-friendly destination. The island has no rivers and much of its water comes from desalination, so short showers and care with water use are appreciated in rented homes.

Getting there and around

Mykonos Airport (JMK) lies about 4 kilometres south-east of Chora, with flights from Athens taking well under an hour and seasonal international routes in summer. Ferries and high-speed boats arrive from the ports of Athens and from neighbouring islands such as Tinos, Syros, Paros and Naxos; larger vessels usually use the new port at Tourlos, north of town, while the old port in Chora serves smaller boats and tenders.

Public buses run from three stations in Chora to the main beaches, Ano Mera, Agios Stefanos and the new port, and boats link several southern beaches in season. Taxis are few for the number of summer visitors, so many people rent a car, scooter or quad, especially when staying in a villa outside town. Roads are narrow and winding, and parking near Chora is limited.

Weather and when to visit

Mykonos has a hot, semi-arid climate with strong Mediterranean features. Rain falls mainly from October to March, and summers are dry and sunny. Average daytime highs are around 27°C in summer and 15°C in winter, and the meltemi keeps summer days relatively cool and breezy, sometimes strongly so in July and August.

July and August are the busiest and most expensive months, with crowded beaches, full ferries and lively nights. June and September are warm, the sea is pleasant and the island is calmer, which makes them good months for families and for visiting Delos. May and October suit walkers and travellers who want quiet, although some beach services may not be running yet. In winter Mykonos is a small island community; many hotels, restaurants and shops close and ferry links are reduced, so a rented home with a kitchen is useful for off-season stays.