Bora Bora

Bora Bora is the eroded core of an extinct volcano surrounded by a wide lagoon and a ring of low coral islets called motu. The lagoon, shading from deep blue to pale turquoise, is the reason most people come: for swimming, snorkelling with rays and reef fish, diving, sailing and slow days on the water. On land there are hiking trails, ancient marae and relics of the Second World War. Beyond the resorts on the motu, the main island has family-run guesthouses and rentals such as bungalows, beach houses and apartments, especially around Vaitape and Matira Point. Days are warm all year, with a wetter season from November to April.

Where to stay on Bora Bora

Vaitape, on the west coast, has the island's shops, supermarkets, pharmacy, town hall and main boat dock, and suits visitors who want services close by and the boat link to the airport. Rentals here and in neighbouring districts tend to be simpler and more local in feel than the resorts.

The south of the main island, between Pointe Paopao and Matira Point, has most of the beaches and many places to stay, and suits travellers who want to swim straight from the shore. Matira Point, at the southern tip, has a public beach with shallow, sheltered water.

The quieter north and east coasts, around Faanui, Anau and Vairau Bay, are more residential, with views across the lagoon to the motu. Most of the island's large resorts sit on the motu themselves, reached only by boat. Because one coastal road circles the main island, everywhere is within a short drive or bike ride.

The lagoon and the motu

A barrier reef encloses Bora Bora's lagoon, broken by a single navigable opening, the Teavanui Pass, opposite Vaitape. In places the reef is more than two kilometres wide, and on its eastern and northern sides it carries a chain of motu made of coral sand, one of which, Motu Mute, holds the airport. The colour of the water changes with its depth, from indigo in the pass and bays to pale blue and green over the sand.

Snorkelling and diving are the main activities. Rays, including manta and leopard rays, gather in parts of the lagoon, and many shark species live in the surrounding waters; French Polynesia protects sharks throughout its waters. Boat trips, outrigger canoes, kayaks and glass-bottom boats all explore the lagoon. Motu Tapu, off the west coast, is often photographed. Do not touch or stand on coral, keep a respectful distance from wildlife, and follow local guidance on where to swim and anchor.

Mountains, marae and wartime relics

The island's centre is the remnant of a volcano that was active more than three million years ago. Mount Otemanu, at 727 metres, is the highest point, and Mount Pahia reaches 661 metres; Tuuraapuo Bay, west of the peaks, was the old crater. Trails climb the lower slopes and ridges from Vaitape, including the route toward Mount Pahia, but they are steep and slippery, so going with a local guide is strongly advised.

Bora Bora had more than forty marae, the stone ceremonial platforms of ancient Polynesian religion. Among the best preserved are Marae Fare Opu in Faanui Bay and Marae Marotetini in the north, restored in 1968 by the archaeologist Yosihiko Sinoto. In the Second World War, the United States built a supply base, airstrip and coastal batteries on the island; several of the large guns can still be seen on the hillsides, and tours by four-wheel-drive often stop at them.

History and culture

Polynesian voyagers settled Bora Bora many centuries ago, and its traditional name, Porapora, is often translated as 'first born'. The Dutch navigator Jacob Roggeveen sighted the island in 1722, and James Cook recorded it in July 1769, guided by the Tahitian navigator Tupaia. Missionaries of the London Missionary Society arrived in 1820.

Bora Bora remained an independent kingdom until 1888, when France annexed it and its last queen, Teriimaevarua III, gave up the throne. In 1942 thousands of American troops arrived to build a military base; it saw no combat and closed in 1946, and its airstrip on Motu Mute served as French Polynesia's only international airport until Faa'a opened on Tahiti in 1960. Tourism followed, and over-water bungalows on stilts appeared around 1970. Today French and Tahitian are spoken, many residents speak English, and copra from coconut palms was long the island's main export.

Getting there and around

International flights land at Faa'a International Airport (PPT) on Tahiti, from where domestic flights take less than an hour to Bora Bora Airport (BOB) on Motu Mute, at the northern edge of the lagoon. Because the airport is on an islet, every arrival continues by boat to Vaitape or to a resort. Inter-island ships and ferries also link Vaitape with Raiatea and Taha'a, and cruise ships anchor in the lagoon.

The main island has no public bus network, but a single coastal road circles it and distances are short. Visitors get around by rental car, scooter, bicycle or small electric buggy, and boats can be hired to explore the lagoon. Traffic drives on the right. French is the official language, and Tahitian is also spoken. The currency is the CFP franc (XPF), pegged to the euro; cards are widely accepted, but cash helps at small shops and stalls.

Weather and when to visit

Bora Bora has a hot tropical climate with little change in temperature through the year, warm days and mild nights. The wetter season runs from about November to April, with high humidity and heavy showers or storms that can last several days, though sunny spells are common. From about May to October the air is drier and slightly cooler, with steady trade winds that can sometimes blow strongly across the lagoon.

The drier months are the most popular, especially around European and North American holidays, so book rentals and flights early. The wet season brings fewer visitors and greener hills. Tropical cyclones are uncommon in the Society Islands but can occur between November and April, so watch forecasts in those months. Whatever the season, the sun is intense: wear reef-safe sunscreen, a hat and a rash guard when snorkelling, and drink plenty of water.

Renting a home on Bora Bora

Holiday rentals in French Polynesia, including furnished bungalows, apartments, fare (traditional-style houses) and pensions de famille (family guesthouses), fall under the territory's tourist accommodation law, the Loi du Pays no. 2018-10 of 29 March 2018. Hosts must declare each accommodation to the tourism service, free of charge, even if they rent only occasionally, and declared properties appear in an official register. Rules can change, so check the current requirements with the tourism service.

For guests, this means a genuine host should be able to confirm that a home has been declared. Rentals on the main island are usually self-catering, so it helps to know that Vaitape has supermarkets and that smaller shops are spread along the coast road. Many guesthouses also offer meals or airport boat transfers on request. Fresh fish, fruit and coconut are local staples, and much else is shipped in from Tahiti, so a well-stocked kitchen makes longer stays easier.